Destination:
Morocco

Traversing the alleyways and souks of Marrakech, particularly in the Medina (Old City), it is easy to believe you have been transported back in time or stumbled onto a movie set for a medieval 'Arabian nights' production. It is this enchanting, fairy-tale quality that brings thousands of sightseers to the most-visited of Morocco's three Imperial Cities, Marrakech. The heart of the Medina is Djemaa el-Fna, an irregular 'square' where everything seems to happen and the place to which tourists are drawn time and again to soak up the carnival-like environment. Tourism, though, has not spoilt the atmosphere: if anything, it has only added to it. The modern side of Marrakech (called Gueliz or Ville Nouvelle), with its luxury hotels, banks and streets bursting with motor scooters, blends well with the past in a metropolis made up of people from the Berber Atlas tribes, Mahgrebis from the plains, and Saharan nomads.

Marrakech was founded in 1062 by Youssef bin Tachfine of the Almoravid dynasty, and his son perfected the city by bringing in architects and craftsmen from Cordoba to build palaces, baths, mosques and a subterranean water system. The city walls were raised from the red mud of the plains, with the snow-covered peaks of the High Atlas Mountains forming a backdrop for the city, though they are often hidden by the heat haze.

One of the many ways to soak up the sights and sounds of Marrakech is in one of the hundreds of horse-drawn carriages (known as caleches) that are for hire, but it is also necessary to take in the Medina's souks on foot, plunging into the hurly-burly maelstrom of passages where tradesmen ply various crafts, from cloth dyeing, copper beating, and leather working to herbalists, perfumers and slipper makers; and where shopkeepers cajole passing tourists into taking a look at their glorious array of colourful crafts.

Fez is the cultural and spiritual centre of Morocco. It was founded in 790 AD by Moulay Idriss II and is the oldest of the three Imperial Cities. The main attraction in this ancient city is the medieval Medina, the old part of the city, which has been continuously inhabited since the 10th century and still bustles with a bewildering throng of colourfully-costumed locals; from olive-dealers and veiled women on their way to the baths, to industrious merchants and traditional bell-ringing water-sellers. The Medina of Fez is the most complete medieval city still in existence, it's preservation having been instigated under French occupation, and it forms a working model of the way life was lived when the world was still young. The more modern part of the city is known as Ville Nouvelle, and has a decidedly French influence.

A guided tour is the easiest way to tackle the buzzing hive that is traditional Fez - but the brave can take on the teeming alleyways, too narrow for motor vehicles, and risk getting lost and having to haggle with a local to be guided back out. Laden donkeys negotiate the steep cobbled lanes, and the buzz of buying and selling is often interrupted by the urgent cries of mule drivers or deliverymen pushing heavy and ungainly carts warning shoppers to flatten themselves against the walls or be flattened themselves. A visit to the souks will undoubtedly lead to a stopover at Fez's famous tanneries, where one of the oldest arts in Morocco (and the world) is practiced, and where tourists can buy premium soft leather products to take home as Moroccan souvenirs.

The best vantage point over the ancient walled city, which lies at the eastern end of the plain of Saiss, bordered by the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, is from the ruined Merenid tombs on a nearby hilltop. From here it is possible to view the skyline with its profusion of satellite dishes, and to pick out some of the magnificent palaces, green-roofed holy places and the Karaouine Mosque, all hemmed in by workshops and tenements, souks and squares, a mass of humanity and the ubiquitous donkeys. Fez might be a secretive and shadowy place, but it is captivating and colourful at the same time, and wonderful destination for those looking to have a real cultural experience during their holiday in Morocco.

*While Morocco has experienced a number of anti-government rallies in recent months, the government's response has been progressive and there has been no widespread violence. It is wise to consult your travel agent or tour operator before travelling to Rabat, but for now, there is no immediate danger. Tourists are always advised to avoid any political gathering when travelling in Rabat.

Rabat, Morocco's capital, is a modern city with wide boulevards and gardens and light, white buildings, and is for the most part a far cry from the hectic warrens of the other Imperial cities of Marrakech and Fez. It is, however, no less steeped in history with its origins dating back to the 7th century. The King of Morocco lives here in his palace amid trees and flowers. Being an administrative capital the city is somewhat conservative and serious, but there is some local colour to be found in the old part of the city, the Medina, and the Kasbah, where there is a more relaxed atmosphere. Recreational opportunities abound too, with a world-renowned golf course (the Dar Es Salaam Course) and a few lovely beaches at hand. Rabat sits on the Atlantic coastal plain at the mouth of the river Bou Regreg, opposite its twin city of Sale.

For decades, between 1920 and the late 1950s, Tangier was a playground for adventure-seekers and the rich and famous, attracting all those seeking a tax haven or a mystic destination, from authors to artists and spies to aristocrats. Regular visitors included the likes of Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams, and Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton. When Spain relinquished Tangier back to Morocco in 1960, its duty-free status went with it, and the city lost a great deal of its flair. Tourism is slowly increasing once more, though: visitors succumbing to the city's proximity to Europe are discovering that its decayed grandeur still has much to offer; from its palm-treed promenade and sandy beach to the old town section, and its outlying villages and resorts. Seasoned Moroccan visitors, however, warn that it is best not to take on Tangier until you are acclimatised to the rest of the country, and to be vigilant as regards safety after dark. Despite its fall from glory, a stylish cafe society has once again begun to build up in modern day Tangier's boulevards, and the merchants in the medina (old quarter) are doing good trade with tourists exploring its maze of narrow streets, all of which are within sight of the Spanish coast across the straits of Gibraltar.

Just looking at the city, there's no need to guess where the port-city of Casablanca, meaning 'white house' in Spanish, got its name. Made famous by the classic 1942 Humphrey Bogart movie Casablanca, this cosmopolitan, white-walled city is Morocco's largest and probably its least endearing; although under the hustle and bustle and slight seediness, lies a unique and charismatic history waiting to be discovered. Founded by Berber fisherman in the 10th century BC, Casablanca was used by the Phoenicians, Romans and Merenids as a port. The Portuguese then took over but after destroying the city and rebuilding it, they abandoned it in 1755 after an earthquake. The city went on to be rebuilt as Daru l-Badya(the Arabic name) by a Moroccan sultan, and was given the name Casablanca by the Spanish traders who used the port. Casablanca is unlike any other Moroccan city. Women ditch the conservative clothing and dress themselves in the latest designer gear, while men flirt shamelessly with them. And while this trend toward modernity has worked out for some, it has also had some very negative effects on Casablanca - widespread urban poverty has led to crime, drugs and prostitution, and evidence of this can be seen in the slums on the outskirts of the city. A trip to Casablanca - untraditional and plain as this city may be - is a must for anyone wanting to experience the 'full picture' of what contemporary Morocco has to offer.