Destination:
Japan

As a modern city Tokyo, the capital of Japan, could be described as too good to be true. People dress in the latest gear, excellent restaurants serve up delicious food of all varieties, and the trendiest nightclubs keep things hopping. The public transport system is punctual and one of the most efficient in the world; and shops and vending machines provide necessities and luxuries both day and night. All this is achieved in a city that is home to 12 million people, amid the confusion of bumper-to-bumper traffic, flickering neon signs and a crush of humanity packing subways and sidewalks. In the crush and rush Tokyo remains, remarkably, one of the world's safest cities with a low crime rate and local people who are only too willing to spare the time and effort to assist a stranger.

With such a dense population, Tokyo is an urban maze of buildings that jostle for space in an unplanned jumble of grey concrete, which makes parts of it ugly and drab. The city fills a huge area that seems to go on forever, with no specific city centre, but rather a succession of districts grouped together. In the back streets, where timber houses line narrow lanes, there are reminders that this is exotic Japan: kimono-clad women prune bonsai trees and colourful neighbourhood festivals take place.

The city is an exuberant experience for visitors. It also hosts many museums and is the largest repository of Japanese art in the world. Then, of course, it would take forever to exhaust the shopping possibilities in this megalopolis. The more one explores Tokyo the more it becomes obvious that one cannot judge a book by its cover. Inside the modern buildings the cultural life of Japan is very much alive and well. Interiors reflect the tranquil minimalist Asian style and taste of Japan.

Kyoto, Japan's most historically important town, is the country's sightseeing capital, packed with 1,700 Buddhist temples, 300 Shinto shrines, imperial palaces, gardens and traditional wooden homes, all well preserved and presenting a picture of traditional Japanese culture. The city lies in the mid-western Kansai district on the island of Honshu, surrounded by plains full of rice paddies.

Visitors arriving from the Kansai International Airport or on board the famous Shinkansen bullet train at Kyoto's modern central station may be disenchanted to initially discover a thriving, overcrowded industrial city with a straight grid of uniform streets presided over by the futuristic Kyoto Tower. The city may present a modern face, but explore behind the scenes in the outer districts or off the beaten track in the old merchants' quarters and you will glimpse cameos and images of traditional Japan, from cherry blossom to geishas, and bonsai trees to shoji screens.

Apart from the architectural legacy, which was fortunately spared the heavy bombings inflicted on other Japanese cities during World War II, Kyoto also boasts some of Japan's most significant art works, a culturally traditional way of life, and superior cuisine. No visit to Japan is complete without devoting time to experience Kyoto.

Tragedy has turned Hiroshima, the main city of the Chugoku Region on Japan's main island of Honshu, into the country's most famous tourist attraction. On 6 August 1945 the unfortunate city became the first ever target of an atomic bomb. Early in the morning three United States B-29 bombers flew in from the northeast; one dropped its deadly ordnance over the centre of the city, leaving a mushroom cloud that darkened the sky while more than 200,000 civilians died. Today thousands of visitors make a pilgrimage to Hiroshima's Peace Memorial Park, marvelling at the lively modern city that has overcome its tragedy to become the thriving home to more than a million people. Not surprisingly the city has become vehemently engaged in the promotion of peace, and American visitors are welcomed with open arms along with those of other nationalities. Visitors are drawn mainly to the Peace Memorial Park and its museum, but the rebuilt city is an attractive place to visit in its own right, criss-crossed by rivers and wide avenues and containing several good museums. Nearby are some of Japan's most scenic excursion destinations.

Fukuoka, the largest city on the southern Japanese island of Kyushu, was the home of the samurai and today is the terminus of the famous Shinkansen Line bullet train from Tokyo, 730 miles (1,168km) away. Originally the town of Hakata was the centre of the area, acting as a gateway to Japan from the rest of Asia, which lies just across a short strait. The feudal town of Fukuoka, however, grew rapidly just across the Nakagawa River, clustered around a castle. In the late 19th century the cities united under the combined name of Fukuoka. The modern city is busy and bustling, with an international flavour and plenty of innovative architectural development.

The Tenjin underground shopping arcade brings the wares of the world to Fukuoka, while a sandbank in the bay has been turned into the largest entertainment district in western Japan with more than 2,000 eating and drinking establishments congregated under the neon lights. The Naka River promenade and riverfront park make for pleasant strolls, while top class theatres, theme parks and art establishments abound. There are some sightseeing attractions in the city itself, and the surrounding area in Kyushu Island has plenty to offer within easy reach of the city.

The most remarkable thing about the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, and its capital city Sapporo, is the contrast in temperatures between winter and summer. Sapporo, site of the 1972 Winter Olympics, is a favourite ski destination with temperatures plummeting well below freezing in December and January - the lowest ever recorded was in January 1945, when the mercury dropped to -11ºF (-24ºC). Summer time, however, sees daytime highs of above 86ºF (30ºC), although evenings and mornings remain cool and pleasant.

Because of its thick snows that turn the city into a winter wonderland Sapporo is favoured more as a winter sports destination than a spring or summer resort. There are ski-slopes within the city limits and residents often enjoy a quick run after work. Sapporo is one of Japan's newest cities, having been constructed almost from scratch as the capital of Hokkaido in 1871. Japan imported foreign technicians (including 46 Americans) to aid in the development of the city, formerly a small settlement of the native Ainu people, which has now grown to accommodate 1.8 million inhabitants. Despite a large population, Sapporo is not as crowded or densely packed as other Japanese cities. A national survey ranked it as one of the country's most desirable places to live, which is not surprising because its natural setting allows for easy access to mineral spas, mountain hikes, campsites, and superb ski runs.

Japan's third largest city, the industrial metropolis of Osaka, lies just 26 miles (42km) south of Kyoto. Osaka is an ancient city, powerful in the days of the feudal lords and samurai. Now the city is a commercial hub, focused on making money, and having a good time: it has a reputation in Japan as the best place to eat, drink and be merry.

It is worthwhile visiting the city just to see the magnificent Osaka Castle. Osaka's castle dates back to the 16th century, built by the powerful lord, Hideyoshi Toyotomi. It was rebuilt following World War II, renovated in 1997, and is today a national treasure. The city has a number of attractions, including museums dedicated to science, wood-block printing, peace, and even ramen! There are also a number of beautiful temples, and the famous Bunraku Puppet Theatre. Other attractions in Osaka include an impressive aquarium, a spa with a bathhouse that can accommodate 5,000 people, and Universal Studios Japan, a theme park focusing on the American movie industry.

Osaka offers many of the same hardcore shopping opportunities that Japan's other major metropolises do, with the most famous shopping district, Shinsaibashi, offering a mixture of department stores, fashionable boutiques, and Western stores. Nipponbashi is the best places to go for electronics.

Osaka food has its own flavour, putting its distinctive stamp on everything from soshi to Okonomiyaki, (DIY-style curbside fare). You'll find cheap and easy food (including Western fare) at Tsuruhashi Fûgetsu, or treat yourself to shabu shabu at Harijyu. After dinner, head to Bar Kama Sutra, the top karaoke spot in Osaka. The liveliest nightlife is found in Dotombori.

The smallest of Japan's big four islands, Shikoku is often overlooked by tourists for its lack of development. However, its mountainous interior is a paradise for outdoor adventurers looking to hike scenic valleys, raft down rivers, relax in hot springs, and visit ancient castles and temples.

Shikoku is most famous as the home to the famous 88 Temples Pilgrimage Circuit, a 1,000-mile (1,647km) route that loops around the island, passing by 88 temples, and an additional 20 lesser temples and shrines. An estimated 100,000 pilgrims each year make the circuit, and while most travel by bus, some opt to trek the route on foot, which takes roughly 60 days.

Despite its reputation as a Japanese backwater, there are several cities on Shikoku worth visiting, including Matsuyama, home to the Matsuyama castle and the famous Dogo Onsen hot springs; Takamatsu, which has beautiful Edo-period gardens; and Tokushima, site of the annual Awa-odori festival and close to the whirlpools of Naruto. All of the larger cities on Shikoku have good restaurants and shopping, though not on a par with cities like Kyoto, Osaka and Tokyo.

Shikoku's tourism industry is still small; however, many travellers use this as an opportunity to see a more authentic Japan that isn't focused on foreign visitors. Travellers willing to go off the beaten path will find a holiday on Shikoku a richly rewarding experience.