Destination:
Nepal

Pokhara is known more for its beautiful lakeside setting and panoramic mountain views of distant Himalayan peaks than for historical sights and culture. Phewa Lake is the second largest in the Nepal, and the sight of brightly painted wooden boats and sails rippling across the reflections of icy summits, presents a picture of perfect serenity. It has become a popular base for some of Nepal's finest trekking expeditions as well as the main centre for white water rafting and kayaking trips. The city provides a peaceful place to relax before or after tackling the mountains or the rivers, and there are a multitude of excellent shops supplying the necessary equipment for trekking expeditions.

Pokhara is divided into two parts - the lakeside and the bazaar area. The actual town or bazaar of Pokhara is set back from the lake, while the lakeside has become the main tourist-orientated zone brimming with bakeries, international restaurants, shops, souvenirs and woven handicrafts, bookshops, hotels and guesthouses.

The city is a favourite for visitors to Nepal as a relaxing break from the temples, noise and bustle of the Kathmandu Valley. There are ample opportunities for swimming, boating and fishing on the lake, or lazing on the sunny lakeshore before the magnificent backdrop of some of the highest mountains on earth.

Trekking is the most popular activity in Nepal and is the best way to experience the natural splendour and cultural riches of the Himalayas. Differences in altitude support a wide range of vegetation types and lifestyles and famous peaks shelter remote mountain villages that are untouched by modern ways of life.

Most treks follow well-used foot trails that have been in use for hundreds of years, connecting pastoral settlements, little mountain villages of stone and wood, and monasteries, temples and shrines. Mountain trekking is not a solitary wilderness experience, as trails are shared with pilgrims and traders driving fully laden yaks or donkeys over the high mountain passes. Herders and other parties of tourists can also provide some company, along with their guides and quick-footed porters beneath their enormous loads. Trails cross high over rivers on swaying suspension bridges, meandering up valleys and past green terraced fields, through Tibetan-style stone hamlets a-flutter with colourful prayer flags, where ancient prayer wheels on the main route are kept spinning by the stream of passers by.

Whatever region one chooses to trek in, the magnificent scenery is always dominated by soaring heights and icy mountain peaks. Different regions allow a range of trekking options, from easy walking for a few days to strenuous expeditions lasting a few weeks, from circular routes around the Annapurnas, to summit assaults on Mount Everest. There are also different approaches to trekking in Nepal, depending on time, money and experience. Organised, all-inclusive treks include porters, guides, cooks, tents, equipment and transport, and provide comfort and security as well as eliminating lengthy preparations beforehand. Teahouse treks follow the most popular trekking routes in the entire Annapurna region, Langtang area and the Everest region, and allow walkers to make their own way from village to village, carrying minimal equipment and relying on 'teahouses' for food and accommodation. It is also possible to hire a guide and/or porters for these expeditions. For those wanting to get away from it all there are also many less-developed routes in more remote regions.

A trekking permit is no longer required in many regions, including the popular Annapurna, Everest and Langtang areas; however a fee must be paid to trek in a designated national park, conservation area or wildlife reserve, which can be paid at the entrance (NPR 1,000 or NPR 2,000 for most areas). The Annapurna region requires the fee to be paid in advance at the ACAP office in Kathmandu or Pokhara (NPR 2,000 for the permit and NPR 1,400 for the TIMS Card), which goes towards environment conservation and maintenance of the area. Fees and entrance charges have been known to change without notice, it is best to check the situation on the ground before you embark on your trek or risk paying a NPR 4,000 penalty whenever you are caught without the correct permit.

Presided over by snow-covered mountains, the Kathmandu Valley is surrounded by verdant agricultural hills scattered with traditional villages and brick houses, rich in ancient holy temples and shrines used by both Buddhists and Hindu worshippers reflecting a great wealth of culture and tradition. Most of Nepal's ethnic groups are represented in the Valley, particularly in Kathmandu itself, but it is the Newars who are the original inhabitants responsible for development and the splendid art and architecture in the cities.

The Valley is the cultural, political and commercial centre of Nepal and encompasses three cities: Kathmandu the capital; Patan, which has been enveloped by the growing Kathmandu outskirts; and the medieval city of Bhaktapur. For the unprepared visitor, the capital city of Kathmandu can trigger a sensory overload - it is a heaving city of both intriguing and unpleasant smells, incessant noise and pollution, and sights that etch themselves on the memory. Cows wander the streets of the old city, stepping between steaming piles of rubbish and hooting taxis, and narrow alleyways overflow with spices, vegetables and handicraft shops. Throngs of people thread their way along bustling cobblestone streets lined with structures from an ancient architectural heritage, which lead onto open squares surrounded by temples of all shapes and sizes. The largest city in Nepal and the nation's historical centre, Kathmandu throws together a blend of the country's varied population and boasts a distinctive, age-old religious influence visible in the daily life of its inhabitants.

Fascinating as this city is however, many people choose to stay outside Kathmandu in one of the Valley towns or mountain resorts and restrict their visit to day trips; or they base themselves in the tourist-orientated Thamel district of the city that offers modern bakeries, smart hotels and upmarket restaurants, along with pushy handicraft and cannabis sellers.