
It is impossible not to fall in love with Paris. The city's people are stylish and flirtatious, its architecture seductive, its restaurants and nightlife devoted to the pursuit of pleasure and its streets are scattered with dreams.
There is no 'best time' to visit Paris; in every season the city is always alive. Summer days are spent lazing on the banks of the Seine, sipping coffee at a sidewalk café, or idling in one of the city's many gardens or forests. In autumn afternoons the brisk walk from the Eiffel Tower through the Parc du Champ de Mars and up to the glittering Champs Elysées is accompanied with a carpet of leaves crunching underfoot. Winter nights induce a warm glow ice-skating in the outdoor rink at the Hotel de Ville, and in spring the passions of performers fill the air outside the Pompidou Centre and the nose is tickled with the subtle scents of flowering gardens.
There is an otherworldliness to this city, where beauty and elegance are favored over purpose and practicality. Centuries of urban development have the appearance of having being mastered by a single hand with a strong sense of balance, contrast and aesthetics. The views from the Eiffel Tower or Sacré Coeur reveal hundreds of iconic attractions for the snapshot visitor, but the best way to see this city is by tucking your map back in your pocket and allowing yourself to get lost on its streets and avenues, discovering the city for yourself.
However long you spend in Paris, on departure you will know you are sure to return.
Paris has an excellent public transport system. It is divided into five zones radiating out from the center and ticket prices vary according to the number of zones required. Public transport consists of buses, an underground metro and express trains (RER). Taxis are also available. The easiest way to get around is on the metro and the subways are generally safe at all times. It is possible to transfer between the metro and the RER trains at no extra cost. The bus system is also extensive, but is slower, less frequent and best used for getting to destinations the metro does not cover. Various passes are available for public transport and can be good value if staying for a longer period. The Paris Visites pass is valid for one, two, three or five days and also allows discounts at certain museums, shops and restaurants, but will not necessarily save money, depending on how much one travels. There is also the cheaper weekly or monthly Carte Orange (passport photo required), but this is technically only available for Ile de France residents. Both allow unlimited travel in the chosen zones on the metro, RER, buses and the funicular to Montmartre. The cheapest option if only in town for a day or two is the Carte Mobilis, which allows unlimited travel for a day in Zones 1 and 2. From May to September a passenger boat, the Batobus, offers sightseeing trips on the Seine stopping at the main attractions, and from April to September a Balabus bus service loops around most of the major sights in Paris every Sunday and on public holidays. A nightbus service, Noctambus, covers the city between 1am and 5.30am. Only think about renting a car if planning excursions from the city as aggressive driving, confusing one-way streets and impossible parking can be testing for visitors. Taxis are readily available and can be hailed or caught at taxi ranks.

Fete de la Musique
Every year on the summer solstice, Paris hosts amateur and professional musicians who perform in a variety of venues around the city, from public squares, streets and parks to opera houses and castles. The festival aims to celebrate music in all forms and is open to anyone. A large free concert is traditionally held featuring some big names in the music world, but on every corner, in doorways, in restaurants and hospitals, museums and courtyards, there are the sounds of music, from jazz, salsa and techno, to choirs, orchestras and steel bands, accompanied by people dancing, eating and drinking.

Bastille Day Celebrations
France's most important national holiday, Bastille Day commemorates the beginning of the French Revolution with ceremonies, dancing, parties and balls all over the city. In the morning there is a grand military parade along the Champs Elysees, accompanied overhead by jet formations, and after the day-long festivities, a fireworks display takes place near the Eiffel Tower. For more information contact the Paris Tourist Office on +33 (0)892 683 000 or email info@paris-touristoffice.com

French Open
Together with Wimbledon, the Australian Open and the US Open, the French Open is one of the four events that together are known as the tennis 'Grand Slam'. The tournament has become the most highly prized clay court title in the world and one of the biggest sporting events in France. Besides the best tennis players in the world, the stadium is also the place to be seen for the fashion conscious. For more information, call the ticketing line on +33 (0)1 4743 5252.

Le Salon du Chocolat
An annual festival in celebration of chocolate is a dream come true for chocoholics, and the large convention center beneath the Louvre hosts just that. There are tastings and chefs demonstrations at a huge variety of international chocolatiers stands; opportunities to sample and buy goodies such as truffles, chocolate-dipped fruit kebabs, hot chocolate and cakes; as well as chocolate fashion, sculpture and art. Exhibitions include the history of chocolate, books on chocolate and desserts, and an antique collection of 'teapots' used exclusively for hot chocolate. A Chocoland for children entertains with chocolate makeup and other delicious activities. For more information contact the organisers on +33 (0)1 4503 2126 or email info@chocoland.com

World Circus Festival of Tomorrow
The annual Circus Festival provides an unequalled opportunity to see top international circus performers from famous schools together under one roof, including acts from the Beijing Circus, the Moscow Circus, the Knie Circus and local talent Ecole Fratellini. The aim is to bring together young acrobats, animal trainers and clowns and to reveal new and exciting trends in circus acts from traditional, modern and experimental circus performances.

Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe
The Arc de Triomphe is France's premier horse race and attracts thoroughbreds and racing enthusiasts from all over the world. Since its inaugural race in 1920, the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe has become established as the all-aged middle-distance championship of Europe, and today it offers total prize money of EUR1,600,000. Entrance to the race is EUR8; free for under 18s.

Autumn Festival
Held every autumn, the arts festival is a showcase for contemporary art in all forms from around the world, including theater, film, music, dance, sculpture and literature, and is the largest festival of its kind in the world. Special attention is given to foreign culture as well experimental work and the development of new talents. For more information email info@festival-automne.com.

Open de France
A popular event on the PGA European Tour, the Open de France is the oldest tournament in continental Europe, and along with the American PGA Tour is the richest and most illustrious golfing competition in the world.

Tour de France
What started off as a far-fetched, unimaginable idea dreamed up by two gentlemen in a Parisian brasserie in 1902, has a century later grown into the world's greatest bicycle race, indeed considered by many to be the greatest annual sporting event on earth. The unique spectacle is ingrained in France's heritage, traditionally ending in Paris, and draws hundreds of local and international cyclists in a battle for dominance over 2,175 gruelling miles (3,500km) every year. The race is split into 21 daily stages and completes a clockwise loop around the country, including treacherous mountain roads in the Pyrenees and the Alps. The famous yellow jersey is worn by the overall General Classification leader who maintains the lowest overall time. Every year the first stage of the race starts somewhere different, either in France or in another country.

Nuit Blanche
For one night in Paris the idea is to stay awake and partake in the observance of night. Many public services, entertainment facilities and tourist attractions, cafes, bars and restaurants stay open throughout the night to keep people awake. The white night is a celebration of human culture and communication and encourages people to enjoy one another's company, as it is often subjugated in favor of the daytime rat race.

Paris Plage
Two thousand tons of sand and some palm trees is all that is needed to annually transform the right bank of the Seine into a manmade beach worthy of the French capital. The Paris Plage (Paris Beach) is a highly popular, free 'event' instituted by the City Fathers in 2002 that attracts millions of visitors to its shores. Between July and August, land-locked city dwellers can enjoy sun, fun and themed activities, without the usual Parisian price tag. A recent addition is a large swimming pool - good news for those seeking some relief from the summer sun, especially as the dirty water of the Seine itself is not a welcome thought.

Eiffel Tower
Gustave Eiffel, the architect of the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) could never have guessed that it would become Paris's signature sight and attract more than six million visitors a year. It was built as a temporary structure to commemorate the centenary of the French Revolution and was opened by the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII of England. It was considered an eyesore by many and there were petitions to have it pulled down. It was saved only because it had become an important antenna for telegraphy. It towers 984ft (300m) above the Champ de Mars and until 1930 was the world's tallest building. The highest of its three levels offers a wonderful panoramic view over Paris.

Notre-Dame
Notre-Dame looms large over the Place de Parvis, on the Isle de la Cité, and is the most enduring symbol of Paris. Built between 1163 and 1345 the Cathedral is considered one of the of the world's Gothic masterpieces. The massive interior can seat 6,000 and it is dominated by three spectacular and enormous rose windows and a vast 7,800-pipe organ. The 387-step climb to the top of the towers is worth the effort for the panoramic view of the city and the close-up views of the famous gargoyles. The tower also holds the great bell that was rung by Quasimodo, the fictional hunchback. Opposite the North door is a museum that displays the Cathedral's history, while under the square in front of the Cathedral is the crypt that houses Notre-Dame's archeological museum.

Louvre
One of the world's great art museums, this vast edifice houses an extraordinary collection of paintings, sculptures and antiquities from all over the world. The Louvre was opened to the public in 1793, soon after the Revolution, to display the spectacular treasures looted from the royal palaces. The best-known attraction is Leonardo da Vinci's enigmatic Mona Lisa, which is protected by bullet-proof glass within its own room. The permanent collections are divided into Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Asian antiquities, painting, drawings, sculpture and objects d'art. Don't even attempt to see it all in one day.

Pompidou Centre
Built in the 1970s and named after former French president Georges Pompidou, the futuristic Pompidou Centre is now considered part of the Parisian landscape. The outrageous design, complete with its glass elevators, was the inspiration for the Lloyds Building in London and attracts visitors by the million; it is the city's most popular attraction by far. The building houses the Musée National d'Art Modern (MNAM), which displays a vast collection of 20th-century art from Fauvism and Cubism to Abstract and Absurd and its numerous cinemas and theaters have regular musical and dance performances. The square to the West of the building attracts a varied assortment of street performers.

Musée d'Orsay
This great museum is fairly new by Paris standards. It is situated in a railway station by the Seine and houses a vast collection of works from the significant 1848 to 1914 period. There are important works from the Art-Nouveau movement but the Orsay is best known for its Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art. The collection is arranged chronologically and contains highly regarded works by Monet, Manet and Courbet. Also on permanent display is the famous painting by Gustave Doré entitled L'énigme and Henri Chapu's marble statue of Joan of Arc in Domrémy.

Musée Rodin
The Rodin Museum is situated near the Musée d'Orsay and is housed in what was once the Hôtel Biron, the beautiful hotel where Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) once lived and worked. Inside are many of Rodin's great marble sculptures including The Kiss and The Hand of God while outside, in the garden, are famous bronzes including The Thinker. The museum also includes many works by Camille Claudel, Rodin's pupil and mistress, and paintings by Van Gogh, Renoir, Manet and Rodin himself.

Musée National Picasso
The Picasso Museum is situated in a 17th-century mansion in the heart of Paris. The collection was started in 1973, after the French government accepted Picasso's own collection in lieu of death duties, and was added to after his widow's death in 1990. All the phases of work from the Paris-based artist are represented including his paintings, drawings, ceramics, sculptures and even poetry. Memorable works include the self-portrait Paolo as Harlequin and Nude in an Armchair. Most of Picasso's great paintings however are owned by and housed in foreign museums or are in the hands of private collectors.

Versailles
The Château de Versailles stands 15 miles (24km) southwest of Paris and is one of France's noted attractions. Most of the palace was built between 1664 and 1715 by Louis XIV (known as the Sun King), who turned his father's hunting lodge into the grandest palace ever built. The 'Old Château' still exists but is enveloped by the vast white stone façade of the New Château. This lavish statement of monarchical power was to become a symbol of the excess that would lead to the revolution of 1789. Perhaps the most famous room in the palace is the Hall of Mirrors (Galerie des Glaces) where the Treaty of Versailles was signed, signifying the end of the Great War. Within the palace visitors can also see the former Royal bedchambers, the grand staircase and other staterooms, and within the vast landscaped park and gardens are many wonderfully ornate fountains and ponds. There is a small train that ferries visitors from the palace to the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon, former love nests where both the Sun King and Napoleon enjoyed the company of their mistresses.

Fontainebleau
In the 16th century, Henry II and Catherine de Medici commissioned architects Philibert Delorme and Jean Bullant to build a new palace here within the Fontainebleau forest 40 miles (64km) south of Paris. Italian Mannerist artists Rosso Fiorentino and Primaticcio came to assist in the interior decoration, helping to found the School of Fontainebleau. Visitors will see the long Gallery of François I, which the artists adorned with scenes like The Rape of Europa and the monarch holding a pomegranate, a symbol of unity, as well as the richly adorned Louis XV Staircase and the Ballroom with its monumental fireplace and frescoes. The palace was a refuge for French monarchs from the days of the Renaissance; they valued it because of its distance from the slums of Paris and for the rich hunting grounds that surrounded it. Many important events have occurred here, perhaps none more memorable than when Napoleon stood on the grand steps in front of the palace and bade farewell to his shattered army before departing for Elba. Compared to the glories of Versailles, however, Fontainebleau can be a bit of an anticlimax; it is best to see it before Versailles.

Arc de Triomphe
The world's largest triumphal arch, the Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile is set at the center of a star-shaped configuration of 12 radiating avenues. It stands 165ft (51 meters) tall and the names of major victories won during the Revolutionary and Napoleonic periods are engraved around the top of the Arch. The names of less important victories, as well as those of 558 generals, can be found on the inside walls. Since 1920, the tomb of France's Unknown Soldier has been sheltered underneath the arch. Its eternal flame commemorates the dead of the two world wars, and is rekindled every evening at 18 0. On July 14, the French National Day, also known as Bastille Day, a military parade starts at the arch and proceeds down the Champs Elysées.

Les Invalides
Les Invalides were built by Louis the 14th in 1670 as a military hospital to take care of wounded soldiers. It comprises the largest single collection of monuments and museums in Paris all relating to the military history of France. It is a burial site for some of France's war heroes, including the ashes of the greatest French military genius, Napolean Bonaparte, rest under the dome of Les Invalides and attract many visitors to Paris. Its 13 hectares of building and large church with a golden dome make Les Invalides a classical French architecture masterpiece.

Jardin des Plantes
The Jardin des Plantes is France's main botanical garden. Covering 28 hectares (280,000 m²) the garden was originally planted by Louis XIII's doctor in 1626 as a medicinal herb garden. In 1640, it became Paris's first public garden. In 1739, after a long period of decline, the gardens wee expanded greatly and a maze called the Labyrinth was added. It still exists today. The Jardin des Plantes maintains a botanical school which constructs demonstration gardens and trains botanists.
L'Ardoise
Cuisine style: French
This tiny bistro is simply decorated with a plain white facade and a rustic interior and is always buzzing with locals. Chef Pierre Jay trained at La Tour d'Argent and his blackboard menu describes the classic French dishes, such as calf's liver cooked in sherry vinegar and scallops cooked in basil oil. The puddings are equally enticing and the bill is outrageously inexpensive for the quality of the food - EUR31 for the three-course set menu. Booking essential. Closed on Mondays.
Address: 28 rue du Mont Thabor (Beaubourg/Les Halles)
L'Astrance
Cuisine style: French
When L'Astrance opened in 2000, it was hailed as the most important gastronomic event for months and it has recently been awarded a Michelin star. But despite the continued critical acclaim guests do not experience either the pomposity or the crushing prices that can be found in other restaurants of a similar standard. Pascal Barbot uses only the freshest, in-season ingredients and the result is creative, sophisticated and mouth-wateringly delicious. Book weeks in advance. Closed Monday, lunch on Tuesday and for the month of August.
Address: 4 Rue Beethoven (Trocadéro/Eiffel Tower)
La Tour d'Argent
Cuisine style: French
La Tour d'Argent is a national institution that serves up not only mouth-watering (and expensive) dishes, but also wonderful views over the Seine and Notre-Dam. A restaurant has stood on this site since 1582 and although no longer rated as 'the best' in Paris, dining here is still an unsurpassed event. A good section of the menu is devoted to duck, and diners who order the house specialty - caneton (pressed duckling) - are issued with a certificate; the practice started in 1890 and they are now at well over a million. Book well in advance and insist on a table with a view. Closed Monday, and lunch on Tuesdays.
Address: 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (Latin Quarter)
Guy Savoy
Cuisine style: French
Nineteen years after being awarded two Michelin Stars, Guy Savoy's luxury restaurant won its third. This virtuoso chef's creations are audacious and inventive; the artichoke and truffle soup and grilled mullet on a bed of dandelion leaves reveal the enormity of his talent, and his mille-feuille is a contemporary classic. Half-portions allow patrons to graze through the menu and the wine list reveals a treasure trove of exceptional vintages. Jean-Michel Wilmotte recently redecorated the restaurant and, although formal, the atmosphere is jolly. Book well in advance. Dinner Monday to Saturday and lunch Tuesday to Friday. Closed Sundays.
Address: 18 rue de Troyon (Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile)
Buddha Bar
Cuisine style: American
The kitschy and exotic Buddha Bar remains a hit with trendy Parisians and foreigners in the know. A massive gilt Buddha dominates the spacious interior of the restaurant, which offers an imaginative variety of Japanese-Californian cuisine. The cocktail bar upstairs is a popular haunt with drinkers and world-renowned DJs are as much of a draw as are the dishes, which although good and well presented are perhaps a little pricey for what they are. Book in advance for dinner, otherwise enjoy the complementary prawn crackers at the bar.
Address: 8 Rue Boissy d'Anglais (Champs-Ãlysées)
Goumard
Cuisine style: Seafood
Founded in 1872, the restaurant Goumard has all the charm of a century-old establishment with original oak woodwork, an engraved 1930s glass facade by Labouret and chandeliers and other lighting designed by Lalique. One of the finest seafood restaurants in Paris, the food at Goumard is influenced by Mediterranean and Asian cuisines. Chef Stephane Arsicaud coats his dishes with subtle and delicate sauces - the emphasis is on enhancing the natural flavours of the catch. Impressive dishes include rockfish bouillabaisse, line-caught bass grilled with oyster juice, and sautéed scallops with curry.
Address: 9 Rue Duphot (Madeleine)
Le Grand Véfour
Cuisine style: French
Housed within the arcades of the Palais-Royal, Le Grand Véfour has been entertaining diners since the reign of Louis XV and has welcomed everyone from Napoleon to Danton - almost every table bears a plaque commemorating a famous patron. Chef Guy Martin's menu is influenced by the cuisine of his native Savoie and his blend of sophisticated and rustic dishes draws foodies and celebrities from all over the world. Favourites include the filet of sole meunière, fennel with citrus fruit essences and tarama jus, and the wild duck cooked in laurel leaves with fig jus. Desserts include the now signature artichoke crème brûlée. Those who can't stretch to the expansive and expensive à la carte menu can try the lunchtime set menu for EUR75. Booking is essential. Closed Friday night and weekends; annual closing from10-17 April, August and 24-31 December.
Address: 17 Rue de Beaujolais (Louvre/Tuileries)
L'Alcazar
Cuisine style: Modern Eclectic
Sir Terence Conran's foray to Paris has been a massive success and l'Alcazar attracts fashionable Parisians looking to dine on seafood or Modern British fare before heading out on the town. The huge ground floor restaurant is of course designed more for style than comfort and patrons can see the chefs in action in the open-plan kitchens. The upstairs lounge bar is a great spot to enjoy a quick snack and a glass of wine while listening to remixes by some of the best DJs in Paris. L'Az bar has regular theme nights with celebrity artists and jazz musicians.
Address: 62 Rue Mazarine (Odéon)
Le Jules Verne
Cuisine style: Seafood
The prestigious Jules Verne Restaurant is located on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower and has an atmosphere that is reminiscent of an airship moored high above Paris. The head chef, Alain Reix, has brought the restaurant an excellent reputation; the Michelin Guide recently awarded it a star. Book weeks in advance. The restaurant's more casual annexe, Altitude 95, is located on the first floor - 95 meters above sea level. Its large bay windows look out over the Seine and the Trocadéro to one side and the inside of the Tower to the other.
Address: Eiffel Tower, second floor (the restaurant has its own private elevator access at the south pillar)
Le Bouillon Racine
A popular restaurant, le Bouillon Racine features a sophisticated Belgium menu and an enormous selection of Belgium beer. The food here is hearty and filling even without the help of several thirst-quenching ales. The reasonably-priced menu changes monthly and includes popular dishes like the casserole of mussels, shrimp and baby clams, suckling pig roasted with the bitter Orval beer, and rack of lamb roasted in a pale biere blonde. The décor is festive and the service impersonal but efficient. Reservations essential. Open for lunch and dinner.
Address: 3 Rue Racine (St-Germain-des-Prés)
Black Calavados
Cuisine style: Modern Eclectic
As the name suggests, Black Calavados is just that. Black. The décor is simple, chic and contemporary with high-gloss black laquered walls, sleek metal surfaces and smoked mirrors creating hazy reflections. Silver booths envelop tables dressed in white tablecloths and upscale china, exuding an intimate ambience without being oppressive. Described as a 'restaurant-slash-bar where you're going to hear rock music' by co-owner and musician Chris Cornell, Black Calavados, also known as BC, appeals to bohemians and businessmen alike. The American Nouveau menu features such sensory treats as Kobe mini burgers, Caramelized Quail and Truffled Mac & Cheese and Peanut Butter Sole. The low lighting creates the perfect mood for couples while the sexy underground bar and nightclub stays open until the wee hours and has become a hotspot for Parisian clubbers. Booking essential. Closed Sunday and Monday. Open 7.30pm to 2am with last orders taken at 1am. Club opens at midnight.
Address: 40, avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie
Charles de Gaulle International Airport
Website: www.adp.fr
Location: The airport is 14 miles (23km) north east of Paris.
Contacts: Tel: +33 (0)1 48 62 2280.
Time Zone: GMT +1 (GMT +2 between last Sunday in March and last Sunday in October).
Departure tax: None.
Transfer between terminals: The three terminals are linked by free shuttle buses.
Facilities: There are ATMs, banks and bureaux de change in all terminals as well as a wide selection of shops, restaurants and bars. Terminal 1 also has a hairdresser and a business facility that includes meeting rooms, fax and photocopier. Internet facilities and wireless Internet access are also available. Mobile phones can be rented at the airport. Disabled passengers are well catered for at the airport.
Transfer to the city: There is a good train service (RER B) that serves the airport with connections to the Paris Metro. Taxis are available on arrival at each terminal. Buses are also available to the city center and major train stations.
Car rental: All major car rental companies are represented.
Paris Orly Airport
Website: www.adp.fr
Location: The airport is nine miles (14km) south of Paris.
Contacts: Tel: +01 48 62 22 80.
Time Zone: GMT +1 (GMT +2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October).
Departure tax: None.
Transfer between terminals: The two terminals are linked by a free shuttle bus.
Facilities: There are a number of shops, bars and restaurants throughout the airport and both terminals have ATMs, banks and currency exchange services. Other facilities include information desks, an art gallery, left luggage, and a medical center offering vaccinations. Internet access points and wireless Internet access is available, and a business center offers a venue and equipment for business needs. Disabled passengers are well catered for; passengers with special needs are advised to inform their airline in advance.
Transfer to the city: RER trains leave regularly from both terminals and connect to the metro and SNCF train stations. A number of bus services also operate from both terminals. Taxis can also be hired from outside the Arrivals area.
Car rental: All the major car rental companies are represented at the airport.