Destination:
Portugal

The capital of Portugal has experienced a renaissance in recent years and has reclaimed its rightful place as the 'golden city' of southern Europe. After slumbering for decades, the city's modern, vibrant and cosmopolitan identity is today much similar to that which it enjoyed in the 15th and 16th centuries during the age of the great discoverers, when Lisbon was the centre of trade with the East and the starting point for maritime exploration of the globe.

The city fathers of Lisbon elected to invest in some rejuvenation in the 1990s, and this ongoing focus on the future has made the most of the city's attributes and attractions, both old and new. Infrastructure has also been improved, with additions like the impressive Vasco da Gama Bridge across the River Tagus, which links the city's airport to a network of national motorways and has facilitated access to other parts of Portugal. There is also a new showcase railway hub, the Gare de Oriente, which is the pride of a new modern suburb on the east bank of the Tagus, creating an even better link between Lisbon and the rest of Europe.

While much is new, there is plenty of the old left to charm visitors, giving the metropolis a slightly provincial air. The delightful, picturesque medieval section of Alfama skirts the city's Sao Jorge castle, and historic wooden trams ply noisily up and down steep hills past art deco cafes and mosaic-decorated pavements. Many of the relics of the city's golden age were destroyed in an earthquake in 1755, but some survived and are popular tourist attractions, complemented now by modern sights, like the futuristic Oceanarium.

Within easy reach of the city are the sandy beaches of several coastal resorts, such as Costa da Caparica, Estoril and Cascais, as well as the forested areas of Sintra and attractions like the extraordinary Mafra monastery. The mood of Lisbon is light and bright, confident, fresh and avante garde, ready to welcome the world to the doorstep as one of the great capitals of Europe.

The southern Portuguese province of the Algarve, divided from the rest of the country by a series of low-lying mountains, is one of Europe's most popular coastal holiday destinations, catering for millions of tourists every year. The region's capital, Faro, is built around a charming harbour beside a wide lagoon. An international airport was opened near Faro in 1965 to cater for the incoming tourists, making the city the hub of the resort trade.

Most of the Algarve's trendy, modern holiday resorts were formerly little fishing villages. They still feature central areas with narrow streets, whitewashed houses and ancient churches, but it is the region's long sandy beaches which have ensured its place as a holiday Mecca. The coastline stretches 100 miles (161km) from Cape St. Vincent to Vila Real de Santo Antonio on the border with Spain, and much of it today is built up with high-rise hotels and holiday apartment blocks, particularly the area to the west of Faro.

A special feature of the Algarve is the myriad almond trees that are found throughout the region; in late January and early February the countryside is blanketed with white almond blossom. There are also groves of lemons, oranges, carobs, pomegranates and figs growing inland in what is known as the 'garden of Portugal'. Also characteristic of the province are swathes of green golf courses, associated with real estate developments and major resorts, which have proliferated since the tourist boom began in the early 1960s.

Bridges and port wine are what characterises Oporto, Portugal's gracious northern capital and second largest city after Lisbon. Oporto sits astride a great gorge at the point where the River Douro enters the Atlantic, and although it is mainly industrial, the city centre has plenty of charm with some art treasures, medieval cathedrals and museums, along narrow streets sporting wrought-iron balconies and bright splashes of potted geraniums.

The main reason tourists visit Oporto is to sample its legendary port wine, processed, blended and aged in the various lodges of the Vila Nova da Gaia district across the river from the city, via the spectacular two-tiered Dom Luis bridge. Visitors can tour the lodges and finish up with a tasting session. The city also has an historic riverside district called Ribeira, which is undergoing restoration and has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Within easy reach of Oporto there are numerous coastal resorts and fishing villages on the Atlantic coastline, well known for their seafood restaurants. It is possible to cruise down the River Douro to take in the scenic splendour of the area.

The remoteness of the archipelago of the Azores in the North Atlantic has saved the nine beautiful green islands, which belong to Portugal, from becoming overdeveloped. International flights do make their way to the Azores, which lie 907 miles (1,460km) from the coast of Europe, west of Portugal, but as yet tourism has not spoilt the traditional way of life of the islanders or marred the magnificent natural attractions, uncluding the steam vents and geysers at Lagoa das Furnas, dramatic views and white sand beaches of Lagoa da Fogo,and harbour at Faial Island.

Those who visit soon manage to drop the words 'stress' and 'pollution' from their vocabulary, and give in totally to enjoying the islands' year round subtropical climate with mild temperatures and high humidity. The only concern that might arise is the odd earth tremor: the islands are rather geologically unstable and pitted with volcanoes and hot sulphur springs. The 250,000 inhabitants seem unperturbed by this, however, and go about their daily rounds much as their forefathers did hundreds of years before. The daily business is generally agricultural labour. The Azores is characterised by large tracts of vineyards and farmland, sprinkled with little settlements of whitewashed houses. The gently sloping hillsides are carpeted with vineyards and fruit orchards. The coast of the islands is, in the main, rather rugged, but there are bays and inlets with odd stretches of white sand for swimming and sunbathing. Island hopping is simple to achieve because all the islands are connected by ferry and local air services.

Most people have heard of the Portuguese island of Madeira, but not many know exactly where it is. Located more than 600 miles (966km) southwest of Lisbon, and off the west coast of Morocco, it is a mere speck in the vast Atlantic Ocean. Madeira, along with its sister island of Porto Santo, is actually the summit of an undersea mountain, rearing up with craggy cliffs from the warm blue Gulf Stream waters in one of the deepest parts of the Atlantic. It features one of the world's highest ocean cliffs, soaring 1,933ft (589m) above the sea, which presented a forbidding sight to the ancient Portuguese mariners who first discovered the island archipelago in the 15th century. In fact Porto Santo and Madeira were the first 'new worlds' that were colonised by Henry the Navigator in his quest to explore the world.

Madeira is tiny, just 13 miles (21km) wide and 35 miles (56km) long, and has no beaches, but it does have an Eden-like beauty with its rich volcanic soil having turned it into a botanical wonderland and agricultural treasure house. Most of the indigenous thick forest was destroyed in a fire created by the first Portuguese colonialists to clear it for farming. Today however, the fragrant island blooms with colourful masses of orchids, bougainvillea, frangipani, wisteria and geraniums. Fruit and herbs grow in profusion on the hillsides and in ravines, and the mountain slopes are terraced with orchards and vineyards. The island has been termed a 'floating garden'.

Madeira's most famous export is its fortified wine, and with nearly 14,000 plots, there is a variety to try. Vineyards like Fajã dos Padres and Silva Vinhos offer tours and tastings, and the Funchal Wine Walk is a good way to get a taste of this historical delicacy without leaving town.

Madeira is accessible by air, mainly from Lisbon to the airport near the capital, Funchal. There is no regular passenger ferry to Madeira but cruise ships regularly dock here, bringing thousands of visitors to the island each year.

The Estoril Coast, stretching west from Lisbon, boasts a rich historical past, a sunny climate, a wide range of Blue Flag beaches, and a beautiful countryside with verdant hills dropping down to the sea.

Once known as the Sun Coast, the Costa do Estoril region has long been popular with expats and is dotted with beach resorts like Cascais and Estoril, while up in the hills the historical retreats of Sintra and Mafra are also well worth visiting for their rich heritage. Sintra was one of the favourite summer retreats of the royal family, and there are pretty winelands in Carcavelos and Colares. Between the Sintra hills and the Atlantic Ocean is the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for both its natural beauty and cultural interest. On the coast, a lighthouse and various other tourist facilities mark the westernmost point of continental Europe at Cabo da Roca. Costa do Estoril was once a spa location favoured by royal exiles from Europe during the World Wars and today is the flagship of Portuguese tourism.

The central Beiras region of Portugal is dominated by its provincial capital, Coimbra, situated about 73 miles (118km) south of Oporto.

Coimbra was the birthplace of six of Portugal's kings and the country's first king, Afonso Henriques, lies in a carved Gothic sarcophagus in the Monastery of Santa Cruz. Other sights in and around Coimbra include several beautiful medieval churches, the Machado de Castro museum (one of Portugal's finest), and Conimbriga, southwest of the city, which is a fascinating Roman archaeological site. Coimbra also has a number of pretty parks and gardens, including the Jardim da Sereia (Mermaid's Garden), Parque Manuel Braga, Penedo da Saudade, and Parque Verde do Mondego.

Coimbra is one of Europe's oldest university towns, and its students swarm the streets in traditional black capes, with coloured ribbons affixed to indicate which faculty they belong to. The majestic university building, founded in the 12th century, overlooks the city, which is a medieval wonderland of cobbled alleys, archways and stairways. You'll find restaurants, museums, galleries, bookstores and boutiques along the winding roads.

The student population of Coimbra guarantees a lively atmosphere at all times of days, and strolling through the medieval centre of town, you are likely to hear the nostalgic strains of traditional Coimbra Fado music, as well as the buzz of activity at the numerous restaurants, cafes and bars that spill out onto the streets. Tuesdays and Thursdays are popular party nights, as many students go home to their families on the weekends and the town is relatively quiet.