Destination:
Jamaica

The capital of Jamaica, Kingston jives to the beat of the infectious reggae music that was born here and has swept through the world. It is the largest English-speaking city south of Miami, lying on a wide plain with the world's seventh-largest natural harbour to the south, and the Blue Mountains behind.

Jamaica itself may have the image of being laid back and rather slow, but cosmopolitan Kingston moves at a fast pace, in keeping with its importance as the dominant force on the island politically, commercially and culturally.

Tourists tend not to stay in Kingston as such, generally heading for the northern and western beaches and resorts instead, but the city does have a wide array of historical and cultural attractions, not to mention a very sophisticated and sizzling nightlife.

Kingston was founded in 1692 after the demise of nearby Port Royal, the former capital, which was devastated by an earthquake. Port Royal was known as the 'wicked city', being the haunt of decadent aristocrats and swashbuckling pirates. Kingston has tried to be more dignified, but it is a little grimy and crime is rife. There are also some inner-city neighbourhoods to avoid, which are more prone to drug-related killings and gang violence.

The north coast of Jamaica is the island's popular 'Riviera' area, and at the centre of this resort paradise is Montego Bay, known affectionately as 'MoBay' to locals and regular visitors. The area has a sparkling 10-mile (16km) shoreline, fronted by coral reefs and aquamarine lagoons, backed by green hills shrouded in sugar cane, banana palms and lush tropical vegetation.

Christopher Columbus was the first European tourist to step ashore at Montego Bay in 1494. Now, the Spanish settlement that was founded in 1510 has grown into Jamaica's second city, but it is first choice for holidaymakers. The beaches in the area are picture-perfect and visitors can choose from a variety of recreations, from bird watching to music festivals, golfing to riding down the river on a bamboo raft.

The Montego Bay area also has some fascinating historical perspectives, not all of them pleasant, that live on in the legends and stories surrounding the few remaining great plantation houses belonging to dynastic families that grew rich from slave labour in past centuries. Several of these are open to the public.

The port town of Ocho Rios used to survive on the strength of fishing and banana boats, but now it is the daily arrival of cruise ships full of tourists that keep the coffers full all along the northeast coast of Jamaica. Ocho Rios and its near neighbours Runaway Bay, Discovery Bay and Port Antonio are mainly clusters of holiday resorts and hotels, catering for package-deal holidaymakers and several celebrities who maintain their private retreats in the region.

Ocho Rios cannot claim to be a genuine Jamaican experience, and is filled with tourist paraphernalia. Because of the need to entertain thousands of fun-seekers, the natural and historical attractions of the area have been commercialised and controlled. There is plenty to see and do in between bathing and sun-worshipping on the magnificent beaches, from climbing up waterfalls to horseback riding through sugar cane plantations, or taking afternoon tea at the former home of British playwright/songwriter, Noel Coward.

The surrounding countryside at Ocho Rios (sited in the 'Garden Parish' of St. Ann) is lush and tropical, with fern-clad cliffs and breathtaking waterfalls, and a self-drive tour of the region to take in the scenery, like a drive through the famous three-mile vine-draped Fern Gully, is very worthwhile.

Ocho Rios is a town dedicated to fun and sun, a crossroads of pleasure and leisure full of surprises and delights in the centre of Jamaica's vacation wonderland.

Jamaica's western edge is a laid-back place where there is little to do other than sit back, relax and enjoy the renowned gorgeous sunsets in between beach-bathing and partying. Centre of this hedonistic haven is Negril, dubbed the 'capital of casual', a sunny resort town that despite its popularity and proliferation of tourist accommodation has managed to retain the sleepy tropical charm that first seduced seekers of sun and solitude when it was 'discovered' in the 1960s.

It was the hippies and flower children who first found Negril, a part of Jamaica appreciated for being different from the over-developed package-tour market of Montego Bay. Negril still attracts a young crowd, and the beachfront bars and cafes are abuzz each night with reggae music and dancing. Negril is known in the Caribbean as being a partying hotspot, with nude beaches and the infamous Hedonism II resort.

Negril is favoured also by those just wanting to get away from it all. It sports its famous seven-mile (11km) stretch of pristine beach, encircling Bloody Bay, and five miles (8km) of cliffs, where locals and visitors alike dare each other to indulge in some extreme cliff-diving, sometimes from ropes. The coral reefs and caves along the coast make it a scuba diver's and snorkeller's dream come true, and for active visitors there is the chance to take part in just about any watersport imaginable. Adventure seekers can venture by kayak into the mysterious Great Morass (a protected area full of palm trees, exotic birds and crocodiles).

The south of Jamaica is the most unspoilt part of this Caribbean island; where the true heart of the nation still beats, relatively untouched by the tourist boom evident on the rest of the island.

Centre of the region is the breezy hill town of Mandeville, founded in 1816 and lying 2,000 feet (610m) above sea level. The genteel British colonial influence is strong here, from the village green bordered by a church and courthouse to the Manchester Club, which boasts Jamaica's oldest golf course (founded in 1868).

The surrounding area, and the south coast region, has numerous natural attractions and wildlife refuges. With its natural beauty and slow pace, Jamaica's south is sought after by more discerning visitors intent on secluded relaxation rather than glitz and glamour.

An hour and a half's drive east of Ocho Rios lies the rugged coastline of Port Antonio, where mist-shrouded mountains come right down into the sea providing hidden coves and beaches. Orchids and palms grow in profusion and waterfalls drop into fern-edged pools. The town itself, which nestles between twin harbours, is relatively unspoilt, with no high-rises, although there are some luxury resorts like Jamaica Palace Hotel. Beaches in the area are among the prettiest in Jamaica, especially Fairy Hill, San San, Dragon Bay and Boston Beach.

Described in the past as 'the most exquisite port on earth' (poetess Ella Wheeler), 'heaven on earth' and as 'the most beautiful woman I have ever seen' (Errol Flynn), Port Antonio still captivates visitors with its charm today. The seaside town has been a favoured destination for the rich and famous for decades, from Hollywood stars to billionaires and royalty, and the seclusion of its beautiful beaches, the azure sea, verdant hillsides and lush flora continue to enchant all comers to Port Antonio.

Port Antonio's banana industry boom during the late 1800s and early 1900s brought unprecedented prosperity to the area, but the Golden Age came to an end with the arrival of the Panama disease that almost completely wiped out the banana industry. The town still boasts a number of grand buildings from the days of the banana boom, such as the Musgrave Market and the Georgian Court House; and the remains of lavish hotels, like the ruins at Frenchman's Cove, are a reminder of the extravagance and extraordinary wealth of days past.

Today the main allure of Port Antonio is the undeveloped nature of its tourism trade, its unspoilt character, and the protection afforded to the environment and culture which has been fiercely undertaken by the local community to ensure that future generations will still be able to enjoy the natural wonders of this vacation paradise.